When it comes to skin care, the choices can be overwhelming. From crowded drugstore shelves to viral trends on TikTok, it’s tough to know what products will actually help your skin.

To bring clarity, 80 dermatologists from 43 institutions in the United States participated in a Northwestern University study to shed light on the most effective ingredients for improving common skin concerns like dry and oily skin, wrinkles, acne, redness, dark spots and large pores.

A total of 23 ingredients made the final cut.

“This is the first time experts have come together nationally to cut through the overwhelming number of skin care options,” says senior study author Murad Alam, MD, vice chair and professor of Dermatology at Northwestern University Feinberg School of Medicine and Northwestern Medicine dermatologist and surgeon. “We wanted to help both doctors and everyday users understand which ingredients are backed by the most expert support.”

Key Findings From Dermatologists

Dermatologists in the study evaluated different skin care ingredients, rating them on a scale of 1 to 9. The goal? To identify which ingredients really work.

From the survey, two ingredients emerged as top performers for a number of skin concerns:

1. Mineral sunscreen (zinc oxide or titanium dioxide). It not only protects skin from harmful UV rays, but most dermatologists agreed that it also helps prevent wrinkles and reduce redness.
2. Retinoids. A powerful derivative of vitamin A, retinoids ranked highly for their ability to improve wrinkles, reduce acne, lighten dark spots, minimize large pores and control oily skin. Note: Retinoids aren’t safe to use if you’re pregnant or breastfeeding. Check with your dermatologist before incorporating retinoids into your skin care routine.

Surprise Omissions

Despite their popularity, these ingredients did not make the cut:

• Peptides
• DNA repair enzymes
• Aloe vera
• Green tea

In general, the most recommended ingredients were those with strong evidence supporting their safety and effectiveness. “With some ingredients, we just need more data before we can make strong statements about their usefulness,” says Dr. Alam.

According to Dr. Alam, many consumers don’t realize that skin care products don’t face the same testing as medications. He points out that this study helps bridge that gap, guiding both professionals and everyday users toward ingredients with true expert support.

Less Is More

Another important takeaway from the dermatology study isn’t just what to use, but also how to approach your skin care routine. Dr. Alam emphasizes the importance of simplicity. “Using too many products can irritate your skin and make things worse,” explains Dr. Alam. “It’s about knowing which ingredients are most effective for your specific concerns and are best for your routine.”

A related Northwestern University study looked at the skin care routines of teen content creators on TikTok and found alarming trends:

• Multi products. Teens in “get ready with me” TikTok videos used an average of six different skin care products just for the face. Some teens used more than 12 products. One teen observed for the study applied 10 products in six minutes.
• Multi active ingredients. On average, routines included 11 potentially irritating active ingredients — often fragrance-heavy and not including sunscreen.
• Mega cost. The average monthly cost of teens’ multi-product regimens on TikTok was $168, with some as high as $500.

“The risk of irritation is high when using multiple active ingredients at the same time, such as hydroxy acids, as well as applying the same active ingredient unknowingly over and over again when that active ingredient is found in three four, five different products,” says study author Molly K. Hales, MD, PhD, a research fellowship graduate at Northwestern University Feinberg School of Medicine.

In a world where 10-step routines are celebrated, this expert advice is a refreshing reminder that simplicity and targeted action can often yield the best results. Over-layering active ingredients can lead to irritation and sensitivity, undoing the very benefits you’re trying to achieve.

“Just because there are many different topicals available doesn't mean you have to use them all,” says Dr. Alam. “In general, healthy skin is largely able to take care of itself. You have natural oils.”

The 23 Expert-Approved Topical Ingredients

Here are the top skin care ingredients categorized by skin concern. The percentage after them is the number of dermatologists in the study who agreed that the ingredient is effective.  

Ingredients for Fine Lines and Wrinkles

• Mineral sunscreen (96.8%)
• Retinoids (96.8%)
• Vitamin C (88.7%)
• Chemical sunscreen (82.3%)

Ingredients for Acne

• Retinoids (96.8%)
• Benzoyl peroxide (95.2%)
• Salicylic acid (93.6%)
• Clindamycin (90.3%)
• Azelaic acid (87.1%)
• Glycolic acid (79%)

Ingredients for Redness

• Mineral sunscreen (95.2%)
• Sulfacetamide-sulfur (82.3%)
• Metronidazole (79%)
• Green-tinted products (77.4%)
• Brimonidine (75.8%)
• Niacinamide, or vitamin B3 (72.6%)
• Ivermectin (72.6%)

Ingredients for Dark Spots

• Hydroquinone (98.4%)
• Retinoids (96.8%)
• Kojic acid (93.6%)
• Glycolic acid (91.9%)
• Azelaic acid (88.7%)
• Vitamin C (87.1%)
• Tranexamic acid (87.1)
• Niacinamide, or vitamin B3 (79%)

Ingredients for Large Pores

• Retinoids (93.6%)

Ingredients for Dry Skin

• Petrolatum (85.5%)
• Ceramides (82.1%)
• Ammonium lactate (79%)
• Hyaluronic acid (79%)
• Urea (79%)

Ingredients for Oily Skin

• Retinoids (93.6%)
• Benzoyl peroxide (80.7%)
• Salicylic acid (79%)

If you’re shopping for skin care — for yourself or for a teen — keep these tips in mind:

• Look for evidence-based, dermatologist-approved ingredients on packaging, like the 23 listed above.
• Ignore flashy multistep routines.
• Stick to these three simple steps: Clean, moisturize and protect with sunscreen.

If you're unsure where to start with product choices or have skin concerns, talk with a dermatologist who can help guide you toward options tailored to your unique skin.